RANDY METCALF/ Arizona Daily Wildcat Tony Novelli finishes his meal while chatting with his friends at Cafe Poca Cosa yesterday morning.

Rating: 4.5 out of 5

Bold blue benches flank the red door and sunny yellow walls provide the backdrop for the lush, hanging green chile plants. The fa�ade of the "Little" CafŽ Poca Cosa adds color and spice to the small strip of North Scott Avenue between Broadway and Congress.

The colors and especially the spice aren't checked at the red door, though. Inside, a bustling room full of hungry patrons buzzes with excited chatter and clanking pots and pans.

I have to get out of my chair to read the menu hung high and spanning one entire side of the narrow room. Breakfast, desayunos, are hand-written in chalk on the left, listing items like huevos, or eggs, with machaca or chorizo, quesadillas and tamales. All the breakfasts cost $5.50 and come with beans, rice, fruit and tortillas.

As my eyes traveled right and my neck strained a bit more, I read the lunch choices. All lunch items come with rice, beans, tortillas, a salad, a couple pieces of fruit and chips and salsa, which are served immediately. Any single choice costs $6.50 and the combination plate and sampler plate cost $7.50.

Less than five minutes later, giving me just enough time to take a sip of my iced coffee with vanilla and horchata ($1.50), my feast arrived. The pollo en mole swam in the chocolaty thick sauce. The chicken was tender and went well with the moist rice served on the same oval platter. The chile relleno (stuffed chile pepper) was lightly fried and filled with cheese. Don't get this one if you don't like cheese, because there's a lot of it. Though I was worried it may be super spicy, the chile relleno seemed milder than the thick, smooth salsa. The last item I tried was the carne con chile colorado. Thick pieces of beef in a red chile sauce melted in my mouth. This dish was the best one to stuff in the warm white-corn tortillas.

Each plate came overflowing with rice and a bed of greens with cabbage, cucumbers and a slice of red bell pepper. On each table was a bottle of house salad dressing, a traditional vinaigrette.

With each plate offering an abundance of food it's doubtful anyone would want dessert, but I asked anyway. Turns out "Little" Poca Cosa doesn't offer dessert (why would they?), but you can try the full-sized CafŽ Poca Cosa across the street at the Clarion Hotel for desserts galore. Still, if you want something sweet try a glass of horchata ($1.50), which I like to describe as a liquid churro, or one of their fun lemonades like the strawberry lime or pineapple basil varieties ($1).

The larger version of CafŽ Poca Cosa also offers a more formal atmosphere, a full bar and a more expensive menu. If you're looking for a casual, fun and quick lunch without dishing out too much cash, try the mini version across the street. Speaking of dishing out cash, make sure to bring at least a bit. "Little" Poca Cosa doesn't accept credit cards or personal checks, just cash. Also, don't count on stopping by for a late lunch because the place shuts down at 2:30 p.m. and is only open Monday through Friday. If you only have time for takeout, you're better off stopping by than searching the phonebook, because the tiny eatery doesn't even have a phone!

Dining at "Little" Poca Cosa feels like entering a whole new world. No phone, no credit cards, and best of all, no frowns. Stop in when you see the Open/Abierto sign on the inviting door. Just remember, check your worries at the door and relish in the wonders of the little things. Isn't that what poca cosa means, anyway?